"AM3R" (AM3R)
08/01/2014 at 21:47 • Filed to: Detailing
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"AM3R" (AM3R)
08/01/2014 at 21:47 • Filed to: Detailing | 0
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After you wash your car, do you dry it before claying? I don't have a garage so if I don't dry my car and go straight to claying I assume I'll get tons of streaks as it'll dry out. The last 3 or 4 times I've clayed my car I did it at my friends garage as he's a detailer by trade and is always willing to let me borrow some space for a few hours. I don't get that luxury this time though, so I could use your help.
Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire
> AM3R
08/01/2014 at 21:49 |
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Read the instuctions on ze clay.
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AM3R
> Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire
08/01/2014 at 21:55 |
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I will when I pick up the clay tomorrow but so far I'm getting slot of conflicting info.
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> AM3R
08/01/2014 at 21:57 |
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IIRC you clay with wet mildly soapy water, after washing, then wash and rinse again after clay.
Svend
> AM3R
08/01/2014 at 22:02 |
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Hi fella. Wash your car and give it a good rinse. You want to get it as clean as you can before claying as any grit can do real damage to the car's paintwork. Don't dry the car but make a good lube solution (if you don't have a dedicated clay lube) of shampoo and water into a spray bottle and clay a small area at a time and continue till your all done, then rewash and then dry the car. Either polish at this stage or move straight onto your prefered wax or glaze. Job done.
When claying you want the body as slick and slippery as you can get it or the clay will marr the paintwork as it's dragged over the body.
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Svend
> AM3R
08/01/2014 at 22:10 |
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I must admit I'm not one for claying as I prefer minimal contact when cleaning the car so I snow foam pre-wash, rinse, shampoo, rinse, de-tar with a tar and glue remover (spray on, leave for it to do it's job and gently wipe with a cloth), rinse, de-ironise (spray fallout remover on and allow it to desolve the brake dust), rinse, shampoo, I have a polyshave block to 'clay' the car should it need it and the re-wash and rinse then pat and/or wipe dry with a good microfibre towel and then apply my sealant and buff.
grahamrh808
> AM3R
08/01/2014 at 22:23 |
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I'm pretty sure you dry the car. The clay bar comes with a spray you use to wet the surface if I remember correctly.
Ferrero1911
> Svend
08/01/2014 at 22:26 |
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How essential would you say washing the car after claying is? I always go straight from clay to wax, and the wax holds up for about 5 months, so it seems to work pretty well.
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Svend
> Ferrero1911
08/01/2014 at 22:43 |
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I'd say pretty essential to be honest (as you need to wash the clay lube or whatever you've been using as a lubricant off) but if what your doing works for you and no harm is being done to the car's paintwork and your happy that's fine, but I'd at least suggest a panel wipe down before applying your chosen wax, glaze or sealant.
In detailing it's up to the owner of the car ad what they are happy with and what they can achieve. I can spout off for ages about techniques and products but the car is yours and what works for me won't necessarily work for everyone. Detailing can be as basic or technically as the person detailing wants it to be. I have re-cleans that take 20 minutes and full cleans that vary from four hours to two days.
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AM3R
> grahamrh808
08/01/2014 at 22:55 |
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they don't always come with the lubricant but common technique is to use a quick detailer/clay lube to wet the surface.
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AM3R
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
08/01/2014 at 22:59 |
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the clay I'm using (Meguiars) comes with a spray lubricant.
Yeah washing after claying is where I get lost, 50% of people say do that while 50% don't.
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AM3R
> Ferrero1911
08/01/2014 at 23:01 |
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when going clay to wax have you noticed any streaks?
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AM3R
> Svend
08/01/2014 at 23:11 |
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Thanks. I have a clay lube/quick detailer to use.
Just to make sure I got this right:
1)Wash car
2)DON'T DRY (won't this cause streaks as I'm outdoors, not necessarily in shade?)
3)Spray clay lube
4)Clay
5)Dry area I just clayed with microfiber towel
I began by following the Drive///clean Clay bar PDF by ammo NYC. They don't mention rewashing.
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Svend
> AM3R
08/01/2014 at 23:37 |
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The rewashing is primarily to remove any residue of what ever you've used as a clay lube.
I'd strongly suggest a shaded area as yes you'd get streaks from not drying but the lube you use would dry out too fast (even if the shade is near the side of a building and you had to gently drive a few metres from your wash area to get to).
If push comes to shove, dry the car and clay a couple of panels at a time, wash clayed area and dry then move onto next area. Panel temperature is not recommended to get hotter than cool/warm to the touch. Shaded areas are best but can be worked around.
Happy to help anytime. I spent about three hours a day on a detailing forum offering and advice as well as a car forum, it's nice to share advice with others who care about their cars.
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AM3R
> Svend
08/01/2014 at 23:41 |
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thanks again, I usually have my friend answering all my questions so I've become pretty good but I'm still clueless and filled with questions haha. I'm usually working indoors with all the proper tools.
Unfortunately the shade might be hard. I plan on doing my normal wash and dry, then claying a panel at a time wiping dry as I finish, is this correct?
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Svend
> AM3R
08/02/2014 at 00:32 |
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That should be fine doing it a panel at a time and then damp microfibre wiping it off and then wipe over with a dry microfibre.
There are so many things that most people don't think about really. To the majority of car people sponge, bucket, hosepipe and cheap shampoo is it. Mention 'two bucket method', 'snow foam lance', 'citrus pre-wash', de-ironiser, tar remover, isopropyl alcohol, glaze, sealant, clay/clay towel/clay mitt/polyshave block, water repelling sealant for glass, enzyme odour eaters, anti-bacterial cleaners, etc, etc... you'll just get a really confused look back as if you started talking English then part way through started talking Welsh.
If you need anything check out detailingworld.co.uk. There are 72,000 members worldwide and were all more than happy to help no matter whether your a sponge monkey, weekend warrior, valeter, or detailer.
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AM3R
> Svend
08/02/2014 at 00:44 |
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thanks again, I really do appreciate it!!
I always use the 2 bucket method. It's just common sense to me, why put a clean sponge into dirty water? I'm looking into getting a foam gun and an orbital polisher soon too.
I'll check that site out, looks like a very valuable resource.
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Svend
> AM3R
08/02/2014 at 00:50 |
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No worries fella, always happy to help.
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AM3R
> Svend
08/02/2014 at 01:10 |
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I haven't seen you posting much on Oppo, do you have authorship? You really know a lot about detailing. That could help alotta people.
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Svend
> AM3R
08/02/2014 at 01:26 |
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Ye', I've authorship for Oppo. My first job after leaving school was at a dealership as a sponge monkey 18 years ago, I've had many jobs in that time and in the last three years just detail to relax, I find it very therapeutic. My detailing is probably too U.K. centric to be fully beneficial to others across the pond. There are slight differences in the two markets with on street own car cleaning regulations and laws being somewhat more relaxed to mainland Europe and North America. The U.K. has many different waxes and many (myself included) embraced sealants and nano coatings.
I try not to talk about detailing out of detailing forums or detailing sections on forums as it's been said on hundreds of ocassions that it's very boring subject (but I love it) but if someone has a question I'm more than happy to answer of find an answer for them.
Also my product knowledge of what you have available in the U.S. market is limited. I know you get Sonax, Gtechniq, CarPro, AutoFinesse but not sure what else.
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AM3R
> Svend
08/02/2014 at 01:40 |
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I too enjoy detailing. It really relaxes me and I love seeing the final result. Maybe once I get better I can do it to make a little extra side money.
Here's a popular site in the US/Canada, we have a very wide variety of products.
Do you have experience with nanoskin?
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Svend
> AM3R
08/02/2014 at 01:58 |
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It's so relaxing I could happily spend days doing it. But I don't charge, I'm not a business or tax registered so it would be illegal and (personally for me only) immoral to do so.
I've never heard of Nanoskin to be honest.
Autogeek and Detailers Domain are both on DW.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/forumdis…
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/forumdis…
Autogeek has had a bit of a bad rep for poor service and delivery of late so I've stuck with the ones I know like Clean Your Car, i4detailing, Polished Bliss, Ultimate Finish, Waxamomo, Bilt Hamber, Gtechniq, CarPro, Elite Car Care, Autobrite Direct, Beaver Care (yes, I know how funny that is, always makes me laugh when I see products called 'smelly beaver' and 'beaver wax'. Lol) and a dozen others.
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Ferrero1911
> AM3R
08/02/2014 at 04:11 |
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No I haven't had any streaks going straight from clay to wax. And my car is black metallic, so if there were streaks they would be really noticeable. The problem with rewashing for me is that the car wash is almost a mile away, so it would get dirty again on the way home. I do buff the clay lube off with a micro fiber towel before I wax though.
I'm happy with the way it turns out and how long the wax lasts, so I'll probably keep doing it this way unless I find myself in a situation where I can wash in the same place as I'm going to wax. In this video you can see how deep the shine is, this is about a month after waxing.
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
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Ferrero1911
> Svend
08/02/2014 at 04:14 |
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Thanks for the advice. Doing it this way is working for me right now, and I'm happy with the results. If I find myself in a situation where I can wash the car in the same place that I'm going to clay and wax I'll give rewashing a try. Right now the car wash is almost a mile away and LA is very dusty, so I wash it once and then take it home to do the rest of the work.
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AM3R
> Svend
08/02/2014 at 12:41 |
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I tend to just head to the store when I want to buy detailing products, I hate having to wait for them to ship and if I order from different sites they come at different times.
Nanoskin is really interesting, supposedly it will kill the use of clay. http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/12…
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AM3R
> Ferrero1911
08/02/2014 at 12:43 |
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thank you! Love the Abarth
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Svend
> AM3R
08/02/2014 at 13:54 |
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I use the CarPro Polyshave Block.
http://www.carpro.uk.com/polyshave-deco…
Though the towels are quite popular.
http://www.carpro.uk.com/polyshave-deco…
The clay is okay but if you drop it, it has to be binned, it's expensive for the amount of use you get out of as the blocks and towels can be rinsed and used over and over. The initial price is quite high compared to clay but after four cars or so it starts paying for itself really.
I have a regime of tar and iron removal making 'claying' almost unnecessary but it depends on the car on each ocassion as to how I approach it. Minimal physical contact is what I go for as much or the swirls and light damage are inflicted in the wash process.
Things have come along massively in the last few years especially with coatings.
Gtechniq Crystal Serum is the latest from Gtechniq and is only sold to accredited detailers as it needs a good proper application. If you mess up with the application and don't apply it correctly it's not a case of panel wiping it off and polishing it off, it has to be wet sanded off as even an aggressive polish won't remove it.
Check out some other of Kelly's at KDS Keltec workshop on youtube.
He's a nice guy too, and so is Rob at Gtechniq. Top blokes.